Carpentras
It never disappoints you, this ancient market town at the foothills of the giant Mt.Ventoux. First mentioned in 46 BC as "Carpentorate" it evolved into an important market town in the "Provincia Narbonensis" or as the Romans also called it "Provincia Nostra". Hence the name Provence, where many of the Roman soldiers were given land once retired. View of the Roman structures have survived as many of the stones and pillars were subsequently used for other buildings. The Roman Arc de Triomphe on the North side of Cathédrale St.Siffrain is a mere shadow of the one in Orange. Visiting Carpentras you rather let the charm of the old town with many 18th and 19th century buildings cast its spell on you with its many small shops, cafes and its magnificent market, one of the best in France.
Carpentras was once the capital of the Comtat Venaissin. The name Venaissin comes from the nearby village of Venasque not Venice. In 1274 the town and surrounding territory was acquired by the Pope and became part of the Papal States in France, a territory stretching from Avignon and Carpentras to Vaison-la-Romaine and Valreas. Papal control of this territory persisted until 1791, when an unauthorized plebiscite was held and the inhabitants voted for annexation by France. The papacy did not, however, recognize this formally until 1814.
Carpentras, used to have a significant Jewish population. At its peak, during the 12th and 13th century, roughly 10% of the population was Jewish. La Synagogue (Place Maurice Charretier), dating back to 1367, is one of the oldest in France. Jews expelled from France were given refuge in the Papal Territory. Renovated in the 18th century and again in the 1920s, it is still used by the small Jewish community in town. Visit the mikvé and bakery in the basement. Inquire with one of the nice ladies of the tourist office located in the town hall (Hotel de Ville) opposite as to current opening times They keep changing and as usual in the Provence, employees' need for 2 hour lunch breaks have precedence over tourists. Last time we checked opening times were Mo-Th 10:00 - 12:00 AM.
Cathédrale St-Siffrein (Place St-Siffrein) has a melange of architectural styles as it was constructed over many centuries. The basic style is Romanesque, including the 12th century dome. There is Gothic style at the South door, also known as the Porte Juife (converted Jews had to enter through this side door) with its famous Boule aux Rats on top of the arch. You find Renaissance style at the West door. Admire the elaborate gargoyles, especially the ones over the South door. The St. Siffrein Fair (Nov. 25 - 27) is one of the oldest fairs in France, a combination of fun and agricultural fair. The equally famous truffle market starts at the Friday before the St.Siffrein fair. It is held every Friday morning in front of the Hôtel Dieu until the end of March. See also our article about truffles.
Noteworthy is also the Porte d'Orange, the only one of four fortified gates remaining. In the 14th century the Pope ordered the construction of ramparts around the town, which were demolished in the late 19th century to make way for what is today the rather noisy ring road around the old town. Other noteworthy buildings are the episcopal palace (now the Palais de Justice) and the Hôtel Dieu (the hospital) and its outstanding 18th century pharmacy (open only in July and August). The former Chapelle de Collège des Jésuites (Rue du Collège), once an eminent place of studies - including the poet Francisco Petrarca - has a magnificent cupola. The chapel is now used for art exhibitions and if you can get inside do so by all means, the architecture is worth it. Otherwise there are a number of 17th and 18th century private mansions with Provençal style doors and balconies. Visit also the Passage Boyer, a 19th century covered shopping arcade East of the Porte d'Orange.
One of the best weekly markets in France takes place every Friday morning in Carpentras. It has been in existence since 1155 and it's huge! The Eastern part of the old town and the Place de les Platanes below it are full of market stalls. You can buy everything you need here, from food to clothing to furniture and you won't stay hungry either while you shop. Reportedly there are over 350 stall holders. No wonder the market is hugely popular. Parking is a problem not only during vacation times. We recommend to either be there early, say 8:30 AM or after 11:00 AM, the market winds down at around 1:00 PM. Click here for the best parking spot close to the market.
Carpentras is known for its candied fruit (similar to Apt) and "berlingots", a hard stripped caramel candy. A visit to Clavel's Berlingot Shop (30, rue Porte d'Orange) is a must. Origin of the Berlingot is unsure. One of the legends has it that a Carpentras confectioner to Pope Clement V (1305-1314, born Bertand de Goth), created a treat to celebrate the dissolution of the Knights of Templars. He then offered these to the Pope with the words "Honor to Bertrand de Goth", hence the name "Berlingots". They are still made today, frankly not everyone's taste, but the tins are very collectible.
We cover the region around Mt.Ventoux extensively on a number of web pages. Read more about the Villages West of Mt.Ventoux, Villages South of Mont Ventoux, Vaison la Romaine and Mt.Ventoux.
Recommendation
Overall Carpentras is an interesting town to visit, especially its weekly market. There are some good hotels in Carpentras, but we would rather choose one of the smaller hotels or a B&B in the Pays du Ventoux or Luberon regions nearby. Renting a house in the area is another option. The surrounding area with its historic villages is quite beautiful and resembles Tuscany.
Dining in Carpentras is ok, again you are probably better off dining in the smaller villages nearby.
