Aix en Provence
What a jewel! The little Paris of Southern France! As far as real estate prices go Aix - 3 hours from Paris via the TGV high speed train - is nearly equal to Paris. Aix is a sophisticated town with elegant streets and squares, magnificent buildings with hidden gardens and student quarters in tiny alleys. It offers a wide array of cultural activities, excellent shopping and a great restaurant scene. It is surrounded by a marvelous countryside, the Pays d'Aix, dominated by the white cliffs of Mt. Sainte Victoire of Cézanne fame. We like Aix best in the April - June and September - October periods, when it is less hot and the streets are full of university students, local residents and visitors, a very balanced mix. There is an air of optimism and expectation. Unlike nearby Marseille (we use the French spelling, it is Marseilles in English), the big, unruly, bustling, colorful and exciting port city, for centuries a magnet for immigrants, Aix retains this very special Provence flavor. The area between Aix and Marseille is densely populated, increasingly an outer suburb of Marseille. This is where the new high-speed train station (TGV) is located. Further to the West is the Marseille airport and the huge petro-chemical complex around the Étang de Berre, an area best avoided. But the area East and Northwest of Aix is lovely - Cézanne landscape!
Aix en Provence is the capital of the PACA region - PACA stands for Provence-Alpes-Côte Azur. It used to be the capital of an independent Provence until 1481 when it was bequeathed by the last ruler to the King of France. It has a long history going back to Roman times: The name Aix derives from Aquae Sextiae - the spring waters of Consul Sextius Calvinus, who conquered the area in 125 BC. By the way, do pronounce the "x", it is "ax" like the ax and not "ae". Without delving too much into Aix's history there are three periods which have shaped it:
- Christianism was officially recognized in 313. Visit the 5th century octagonal Baptistery of Cathédrale St.Sauveur, the 2nd oldest in the Provence after the one in Frejus. The roof of the baptistry is supported by eight Roman columns.
- In 1387 the reign of King Louis II began, who founded the university. He was succeeded by his son, the much revered "good" King René, a cultivated ruler and sponsor of literature and the arts. Over the centuries, with Aix's fortunes going up and down, the university was a steady pillar in the town.
- Aix's reputation as a cultural center got a boost in the middle of the 19th century when artists discovered Aix, which unlike nearby Marseilles had avoided industrialization and had retained its Provençal charm. These were the times of the Impressionists, like Paul Cézanne, scion of a wealthy merchant family in Aix, who was often visited by his friends Renoir and Monet at his estate Le Jas de Bouffan near Aix. In 2006 Aix commemorated the 100th anniversary of Cézanne's death. These were also the times of Cézanne's friend, the writer Emile Zola. There are many other famous residents of Aix, like the painter Victor Vasarely and the designer Emmanuel Ungaro. After the second world war Aix started the international festival for classical music (operas, symphony concerts, chamber music and recitals), which developed into one of the most famous in Europe. One of the guest conductors in 2007 is again Sir Simon Rattle, he adores Aix. For more information and ticket sales click here.
Let's do a tour of the Centre Historique (old town), to view the map click here. Aix is growing rapidly, like many French cities in the South. You have to make your way through the modern parts of Aix, some nice, some not so nice until you reach the ring road circling the old town. Don't drive into the old town, you won't find a parking space there. Best bet, if you arrive before 10:00 AM, is to park the car at one of the underground parking garages on the ring road (Parking Pasteur, Bellegarde, Cardeur, Mignet and Carnot). We like the huge Carnot underground parking of the Palais de Congress best. It is located on the South-Eastern corner of the ring road. Parking is a real problem in Aix, especially during vacation times. An open air parking space can found on the road to Tholonet a bit further out; takes you 10 min. to walk back to the historic town.
From Carnot Parking cross the ring road and walk into the Centre Historique, along Rue d'Italie two blocks and turn left into Rue Cardinale, entering the Quartier Mazarin, the most elegant part of Aix. It was named after the 7th century archbishop who began to develop this part of town. Visit the 13th century St.Jean-de-Malte Church and the former Palais de Malte, now housing the Musée Granet with its interesting archaeological and art collections. You will reach the lovely Quatre-Dauphins fountain. Walk along Rue 4 de Septembre and view some of the elegant "hôtels" (town mansions); notable are No.19 (Hôtel d'Arbaud-Jouques), No.11 (Hôtel de Boisgelin), No.9 (Hôtel de Villeneuve d'Ansouis) and finally No.2a where the Musée Paul Arbaud with its interesting Provençal faience collection is located. Continue North until you reach the Cours Mirabeau, the tree lined grand boulevard of Aix with many luxury stores, posh real estate offices, banks and cafés as well as a weekly street market. The Cours Mirabeau was built in 1652 and divides the old town from the newer Quartier Mazarin. This used to be and still is the place to see and be seen. Join locals and tourists on the sidewalk tables of Les Deux Garcons Café, a must when visiting Aix. Established in 1792 by two waiters (garcons), the café/brasserie has a magnificent 18th century interior in the style of a true Parisian bistro. Many notables have frequented this place. Service has improved, no more grumpy old waiters. You can have a decent bistro type lunch or simply enjoy a coffee watching the comings and goings on the Cours Mirabeau.
From the magnificent La Rotonde Fountain on Place Général de Gaulle (unfortunately lots of traffic here) walk up Rue Espariat and you will find Eglise du St.Esprit (in dire need of restoration) on your left and the Clocher des Augustins on your right. Many nice shops in this part of town. Turn left into Rue Bedarrides and walk past Rue Verrerie on your left (many small restaurants here and in Rue Marseillais), continue on Rue Fauchier and you will hit Place Richelme with its wonderful daily green market. A couple of steps North is the Place d'Hotel de Ville where a flower market is held on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. The Baroque style Hôtel de Ville (city hall), built in 1656, has an elegant inner courtyard and grand staircase. Note the exquisite wrought ironwork gateway. Adjacent is the Tour d'Horloge clock tower (constructed in 1510) with four wooden statues representing the four seasons under an astronomical clock. On the Southside of the Place d'Hôtel de Ville is the Halle aux Grains, the former Corn Exchange (now a post office) with its elaborate façade. An old man (the Rhône) rests on an urn from which water flows, a lady (Cybel, goddess of fertility) holds a horn (with grain) in her left hand and one of her legs swings outside the façade.
Let's walk three blocks North to the Place de l'Université and you will see Cathédrale St.Sauveur in front of you, the former archbishop's residence, now the Musée des Tapisseries (tapestry museum) on the right and the university halls on the left. Cathédrale St.Sauveur was constructed from the 5th to 17th century and shows as many styles. Like most other churches in France it was damaged during the French revolution. Most interesting parts are the Gothic façade and clock tower and of course the 5th century octagonal baptistery mentioned earlier. This used to be a stand alone building, one of the oldest baptisteries in France. Adults were baptized by submerging in the round baptistery in the middle of the room. Clothes could be changed behind curtains hanging from rods, you can still see the holes in the columns. Then they went back to church which was quite a distance away in another part of the old town. St.Sauveur has a lovely cloister which as far as we know can only be visited by prior appointment.
Finish the tour by walking Southeast - take anyone of the narrow streets - past the Palais de Justice and the Cour d'appel (Court of Appeal) until you reach Place des Precheurs (Preachers' Place) and the St.Marie-Madeleine church, built 1691-1703 in Renaissance style with neo-antique features added later. Every Saturday morning a colorful antique market is held on Place des Precheurs - worthwhile a visit.
So, that's it - if you make the full tour and visit some of the museums plan to spend two days. Did we list everything? Definitely no, once you are there more museums, town houses, markets and fine stores are waiting to be discovered. So what else can be recommended? Exploring the countryside of course! The Pays d'Aix should be on every visitors travel schedule. Especially the Mont Ste.Victoire, a favorite theme for Cézanne.
Recommendation
A visit to Aix en Provence is a must. You will thoroughly enjoy it, especially in the shoulder season. There are a number of excellent hotels in town. If you plan to spend more than 2-3 days in the Provence we recommend to stay in the Pays d'Aix in a quiet B&B, a country hotel or you might consider renting one of the many vacation properties nearby or in the not too distant Luberon, les Alpilles or Pays du Ventoux regions. The restaurant scene is great and shopping is as good as it gets outside Paris. Aix combines the flavor of the Provence with the sophistication of a city. Its cultural activities are varied and result in an enormous number of French and foreign visitors.
