Arles
Arles, since 1981 listed as a World Heritage site, has a number of the most important Roman monuments outside of Italy. It is also the gateway to the Camargue, France's cowboy country.
We love Arles, its location on the Rhône, its wonderful Roman monuments, the ramparts, Place de la Republique with Cathédral Saint-Trophime, its cloister and the impressive town hall as well as retracing van Gogh's steps. Let's not forget the many cultural events and festivals during the summer season. For the sake of honesty here is what we don't like: the at times pungent smell from the pulp and paper mill in Tarascon to the North. Expect bus loads of tourists during the summer time, Arles is one of the major attractions in France outside of Paris.
But let's retrace some of Arles' history so we can enjoy the historic monuments in the right context. Walking around Arles you can group most of the the monuments into three periods, the three golden ages of Arles:
- Early Roman times: the arena, the theatre and the cryptoporticus, dating back to the 1st century B.C.
- Late Roman times: the baths of Constantine and the necropolis of Alyscamps, dating back to the 4th century
- Medieval times: Saint-Trophime and its cloister (11th and 12th centuries), one of Provence's major Romanesque monuments.
Arles was founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC, albeit there probably were earlier Ligurian settlements. A hill between the Rhône and the Crau, the former delta of the Durance river, which in these times flowed directly into the Mediterranean sea, must have been an obvious location for a settlement. The Celts conquered it in 535 BC and named it Arelate. The Romans captured the town in 123 BC. After Marseille's punishment in 40 BC by Julius Caesar for its backing of Pompey the Great, Caesar's arch rival, Arles developed into one of the most important administrative and religious centers in the Provincia Narbonensis. The Romans constructed a floating bridge, the most Southern crossing of the Rhône and hence the most direct overland route from Italy to Spain. Provincia Gallia Narbonensis or Provincia Nostra, hence today's name Provence, became the first area outside of what is today Italy, where Roman officers were rewarded land to retire. During those times many of the Roman monuments which still exist today were constructed. Arles reached its peak during the 4th and 5th centuries. It was frequently used as headquarters for Roman Emperors during military campaigns and in 395 it became the capital of the Roman district of Gaul, an area that encompassed large areas of today's France and Spain. The Emperor Constantine the Great resided here at times; his son, Constantine II was born here and Constantine III made Arles his capital in 408 during his 4 year reign.
In early Christian times Arles became a key religious center and at times expoused theological directions not always in line with the hierarchy in Rome. This trait continued in later history of the Provence , which became an important base for the Cathars. Despite these disputes Arles developed into the most important religious center in the Provence.
Arles decline began with the invasion of the Provence by the Muslim Saracens, who later were expelled by the Franks. They took control of the region and in 855 Arles became the capital of a Frankish Kingdom of Arles, which included Burgundy and part of Provence. During those times all of Southern France was terrorized by Saracen and Viking raiders. In the following centuries Arles changed hands many times and the town's importance declined. Most of the old town was in ruins and the population a fraction of what it had been in Roman times. It gradually recovered and became a regional center for agriculture and trade with a thriving port, yet it remained small in comparison to Marseille.
Arles experienced its 3rd golden age in the 12th century, when it became a free town governed by consuls and magistrates. Emperor Frederick Barbarossa was crowned in Arles in 1178. It retained its self governing status until the French Revolution of 1789.
The construction of the railroads in the 19th century sealed Arles' fate, it became a backwater of the Provence. Similar to Aix en Provence there came something good out of adversity. Over time both towns attracted artists, mainly because both had retained their Provençal charm and were not disfigured by industrial development. Vincent van Gogh settled in Arles in 1888. He produced over 300 paintings and drawings here, such as l'Arlesienne and Starry Night Over the Rhône. However his mental health declined and in 1889 he left Arles for the mental asylum in Saint Rémy de Provence. None of his works are however on permanent exhibition in Arles. Creating an annex to the Louvre or Musee d'Orsay in Arles and/or Aix en Provence is unthinkable in centralist France, it's Paris or nothing.
Walking the town is easy, everything except Alyscamps and the Pont du Langlois (van Gogh Bridge), is located in the old town. Parking is a huge problem during tourist season. Take a shot at the parking garage on Blvd. des Lices near the tourist office. If not try your luck on some of the smaller open air parking spaces next to the ramparts. Last resort: park outside in the newer parts of town and hike into the old town.
Take a look at the map of Arles here. From the parking garage on Blvd. des Lices we walk up Rue de l'Hotel de Ville to the wide Place de la Republique. You see the town hall (Hotel de Ville) with its magnificent clock tower in front of you, Cathédrale St.Trophime to the right and the smaller 17th century Eglise Ste.Anne, which houses the Musee d'Art Paien (Pagean Art Museum) on the left. In the middle of the square is the obelisk fountain. Its 10m high Egyptian type obelisk used to mark the finishing line for chariot races in the Roman circus. Walk inside the town hall (Hotel de Ville) to see the impressive 17th century hall with a copy of the Venus of Arles (original is in the Louvre) on the stairway leading up to a magnificent meeting hall (closed to visitors, we happened to walk in there and were promptly thrown out). Cathédrale St.Trophime, where Frederic Barbarossa was crowned emperor in 1178, has a massive 40m high bell tower and a very distinct Romanesque doorway, one of the best examples of Romanesque art in the Provence. It shows Christ on top of the door, the twelve apostles directly underneath and various saints between the columns. St.Trophime, the first bishop of Arles around 250, is the 3rd statue on the left, counting from the entrance door. The cathedral has three long and impressive Romanesque naves, the central nave is 20m high and 15m wide and ends with a Gothic apse. Visit the St.Trophime Cloister, the most richly decorated cloister in Southern France with four non-symmetrical galleries and a wonderful courtyard. The style is Provençal Romanesque (North and East galleries) and Gothic (South and West galleries). You get a feel for the importance of Arles as a religious center during medieval times.
From the cloisters we walk up the Rue du Cloître and turn right into Rue de la Calade. You will see the entrance to the Roman Theater (Théâtre Antique), a semicircle of tiers facing west towards the stage house with its Roman columns. Only two of the columns remain, yet you get an impression of the magnitude of this theater complex.
At the end of Rue Calade you reach the Amphi Theater (les Arènes), which could seat up to 30.000 spectators. Only the lower two tiers of the arches remain, the upper tiers were used as building material. In medieval times, the arena became a fortified inner town quarter, with more than 200 houses and two chapels. They were cleared only in 1830. Still, it is an impressive monument. Parts of it are presently being restored. In 2004 we attended a Provençal bull fight in the arena. It was a delight to watch the skills of the horsemen and matadors; the bulls are not being killed. There are also Spanish type bullfights here, the typical serial butchery. During bullfight days market stands sell ox roast, a traditional dish of the nearby Camargue.
On the Western side of Les Arènes is the Fondation van Gogh-Arles, a permanent exhibtion of art created in honor of van Gogh by painters, sculptors and photographers. No works of van Gogh are exhibited here. On the Eastern side of les Arènes is the Place de la Major with the Romanesque style church Notre Dame la Major. From the terrace you have a wonderful view North towards the Cevennes and les Alpilles with Mt.Ventoux in the background. You can see the ruins of Montmajour Abbey in front of les Alpilles.
Explore the narrow streets of Arles. Walk down Rue Raspail and turn left into Rue du Grand Prieuré until you reach the Musée Réattu, located in the 15th century Commanderie of the Knights Hospitalers. The museum, the building was at some point owned by the 19th century painter Jacques Réattu, a native of Arles, is worthwhile visiting. It houses an interesting collection of 16th-20th century paintings, as well as the Picasso foundation with 57 of his drawings.
Nearby are the Constantine Thermes (Palais Constantin) with its alternating rows of bricks and stones only the monumental apse with three arched windows and remnants of the underground hot water circuit can be seen.
Before you reach the Hotel de Ville (town hall) again, turn right into Rue Balze and you will reach one of the most remarkable museums of early Christian art, the Musée d'Art Chrétien. It has one of the best collections of early Christian sarcophagi. From the museum you have acces to the Cryptoporticus, three impressive underground galleries from early Roman times. They were actually the foundation for the Roman forum and later used as store houses.
Between the Musée d'Art Chrétien and the Blvd. des Lices is the Espace van Gogh. To this former hospital (Hôtel Dieu) Vincent van Gogh was brought after the famous incident of cutting off his left earlobe in December 1888. The 16th century building has a French style garden in the center courtyard which was immortalized in his painting "Le Jardin de l'Hotel Dieu". The garden has been restored to the state it was during van Gogh's time.
Retrace the steps of van Gogh and visit the Gallo-Roman cemetary, the Nécropole des Alyscamps, painted four times by him. Walk the Blvd. des Lices East, at the Tour des Mourgues (Mortuary Tower) turn right into Avenue des Alyscamps which after a left turn leads you directly to the cemetary. There are numerous stories and legends surrounding this cemetary, one of the most famous in Europe. The name is a corruption of "Elisii Campi" (Elysian Fields). Roman cities forbade burials within the city limits and it was common for the roads immediately outside the city to be lined with tombs and mausoleums. The Alycamps was Arles burial ground for well-off citizens from all over Europe for nearly 1500 years. It is located on the final stretch of the Aurelian way, leading to the city gates. Memorials range from simple sarcophagi to elaborate monuments. After St.Trophime's body was transferred to St.Etienne in the 12th century, the cemetery lost its status and fell into disrepair or was pillaged. Today only the wide tree-lined alley with its tombs leading to the St.Honorat church remains. Still, very impressive.
Our last pilgrimage in Arles concerning van Gogh is the Pont du Langlois, better known as van Gogh Bridge. Drive Blvd. des Lices West, turn left into Avenue Sadi Carnot and follow the signs Port St. Louis du Rhône until the second roundabout, where you turn left following the sign Pont van Gogh. The bridge crosses the Canal d'Arles. It's a wooden draw bridge, painted and sketched many times by van Gogh; it reminded him of the bridges in his native Holland. The bridge was destroyed during the 2nd World War, but has since been restored.
Cultural Events & Festivals 2008
The bull fighting season starts in April, for more information go to the website of Arènes d'Arles.
The Sud-Arles dance festival in July features workshops and performances in the Théâtre Antique of flamenco, tango, African and Arab dances; check their program here.
The International Photo Exhibitions run from July to September, for further information check their program here.
The International Harp Festival takes place in October, check their program here.
Recommendation
Arles is a town you definitely want to visit, but you should choose your accommodation carefully. Most travel guides will talk about that "magical city with its numerous visitors, who come back again and again, and those who settle amidst the Roman walls and tiny streets walked by many an artist, musician or poet before they". We rather quote the noted Provençal poet Frederic Mistral who wrote "Arles ... , you are dreaming of your past glory". Arles leaves the impression of a town struggling a bit with its finances. Many of its wonderful townhouses cry out for being renovated. Another issue: Arles suffers on many days from air pollution. The French government, a vocal international champion of environmental protection, makes no serious efforts to clean up the environmental disaster in its own backyard.
There are a number of good small hotels in town. But you might as well stay in one of the B&Bs or country inns in les Alpilles or the Camargue. If you have enough time - at least a week - you might consider renting a vacation property in les Alpilles; also the Pays du Ventoux and Luberon regions are not that far away.
