Villages West of Mont Ventoux
The region West of Mt.Ventoux has become a premier area for individual tourism in the Provence. The numerous small villages and the ancient town of Vaison la Romaine offer many attractions - historical sites, outdoor activities, gourmet restaurants and a lot of wine. This is the Southern tip of the Côte du Rhône wine region with famous wine villages like Gigondas, Seguret, Rasteau, Cairanne and Vacqueyras.
You need to take your time to discover the area and get a good feel for it. Stay in one of the many excellent country hotels, B&Bs or rent a self catering vacation home or apartment.
We cover the region around Mt.Ventoux extensively on a number of web pages. Read more about the Villages South of Mt.Ventoux, Vaison la Romaine, Orange, Carpentras and Mt.Ventoux.
Let's first talk about the Dentelles de Montmirail and then make a tour around it, visiting many of the historic villages.
Dentelles de Montmirail
This 8 km ridge at the Western foothills of Mt.Ventoux, its name (dentelles means "lace" and Montmirail is a small village at its foothills, close to Vacqueyras) refers to the dramatically jagged shape of the peaks, formed by horizontal strata of Jurassic limestone being folded and forced into a nearly upright position and subsequently eroded into sharp-edged ridges and spikes. The highest peak of the Dentelles is St.Amand, at 734 m (2,400 ft). The Dentelles de Montmirail are a paradise for hiking and rock climbing.
Villages West of Mont Ventoux
We start from the South near Carpentras, drive along the Western slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail towards Vaison la Romaine, visiting Beaumes de Venise, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Seguret, Rasteau, Cairanne, Villedieu until we reach Vaison la Romaine. From there we turn South to Malaucène, visiting on the way le Crestet and Entrechaux. This is a day tour by car - not counting the visit of Vaison la Romaine, where you should spend another day.
Beaumes de Venise is a small village, well known for its olive oil and muscat wine. Visit the wine cooperative (on Rt.D7) and the olive oil cooperative, la Balméenne (in the village center) with its old oil presses. Marvel at the Soviet style monument honoring wine growers - click here to view this beauty. A little sidetrip on Rt.D90 takes you North to Lafare, a most picturesque trip to discover the Dentelles de Montmirail. Lots of marked hiking paths. The La Salle Gorge with its salt stream is 1 km North of Lafare (take the small road left in the village). Suzette is a tiny village, a major producer of apricots - a wonderful quiet location.
Return to Beaumes de Venise and take Rt.D8 to Vacqueyras. You will see on the right side Chapelle Notre Dame d'Aubune, a Romanesque church from the 12th century with a notable collection of sarcophagi from early Christian times.
Vacqueyras is well known for its Grand Cru de Vacqueyras, a Côte du Rhône Village and Raimbaut de Vacqueyras, a 12th century troubadour. Its narrow winding streets were a favourite of the famous 19th century actress Sarah Bernhardt.
Gigondas was settled by the Romans over 2000 years ago. The name comes from "Jocunditas" which signifies joy and pleasure. This you will undoubtedly experience after tasting its wine, one of the best in France. It is the most famous Côte du Rhône Village wine growing village in the Pays du Ventoux, followed by Rasteau, Seguret, Cairanne and Vacqueyras. Walk the narrow streets up to he the ruins of the chateau. The village is well equipped with cafes, restaurants and wine cellars. Before the village entrance take the left road (the last part is unpaved) leading to the Western slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The dirt road ends at the Col du Cayron, where 4 - 5 foot paths cross. Walk approx. 1.5 km on the forest road West to the Belvedere du Rocher du Midi (468m high). You will be rewarded with an outstanding panoramic view of the Rhône Valley, the Cevennes, Alpilles and Luberon. The area East of Gigondas is great for the occasional hiker. You can get a map of the numerous marked hiking paths at the tourist office in Gigondas.
From Vacqueyras take Rt.D23 to Sablet, a picturesque wine village. The village is nearly perfectly cone shaped on a hill, with the church's clock tower at its highest point. There is an annual book festival at the end of July. Continue on Rt.D23 until you reach Seguret, one of the most beautiful medieval villages in France. Park the car below the village entrance and walk up to the Porte Reynier, a 17th century belfry with its one handed clock. Going up the narrow cobblestoned alley you will reach the Fontaine à Mascarons (fountain with masks). A further attraction is the 10th century church of St.Denis with its Romanesque nave. During the summer time the church warden will give you a wonderful detailed tour of this little church (in French). Most of the houses in the old village are vacation properties owned by foreigners and a view local artists. Result is that the old village lacks a bit of the typical Provence village life. During Christmas time the Cacho Fio ceremony takes place, a ritual lighting of the Christmas log.
Continue North until you reach Roaix, another beautiful wine village with a now privately owned chateau on top of the hill. Take Rt.D975 South to Rasteau, a historic wine village producing a highly regarded Côte du Rhône Village. A specialty here are the Vin Doux Naturels (sweet red and white wines), which goes very well with melon and ham as well as desserts. The "Nuit du Vin Doux" on the night of August 14 brings together over 10.000 people every year. Park the car at the main square and walk up the hill, on narrow cobblestoned alleys until you reach the ruins of the chateau and the medieval l'Eglise de St.Didier. Walking back to the main square, take the alleys on the Western side and you will pass by a picturesque belfry.
From Rasteau take Rt.D69 to Cairanne, turn right at the first roundabout and after 100m take Rt.D51 up the hill, turn left at the sign Vieux Village and you will reach one of the most picturesque Knights of Templar fortifications in the Pays du Ventoux. Most of the buildings in the old village are from the 18th century except the old ramparts which date back to the 12th century when first the Knights of Templar and then the Knights Hospitalers lived here. Notable are the Port St.Roche (also called the Autanne Gate), the Donjon (clock tower), the templars' tower and the magnificent ramparts. You have a great view over the Rhône Valley from the top. Cairanne produces a powerful Côte du Rhône Village, which goes well with the hearty dishes of the Provence as well as a good cheese. The village has a lively wine festival on the 4th Sunday of July.
Should you be in this area on a Saturday morning, make a 4km sidetrip further North to Ste.Cécile les Vignes and visit the wonderful weekly market. More intimate than the big ones in Carpentras, Vaison la Romaine or l'Isle sur la Sorgue, it gives you a feel what markets in the Provence are all about. Sit in one of the cafés, do some people watching and enjoy life.
We continue on Rt.D51 North which leads us over the Col du Debat (wonderful views of the Rhône Valley), through St.Roman de Malegarde, past Buisson to Villedieu. The name of this charming village probably comes from Roman agricultural estates called "villas" and ceremonies which took place in honor of their "deis" or gods. Hence the the name "Villa Dei". It is a bit off the beaten track which makes it especially worthwhile. The village was a Knights Templars settlement, similar to Cairanne, Buisson, Roaix and Buisson - no wonder as an important Commanderie of the Knights Templars is only a few miles North in Richerenches. Walk the small alleys and visit the medieval remparts, the belfry and the 12th century church.
After 5 km we reach Vaison la Romaine with its Roman ruins, medieval village, the wonderful weekly market, the shops, cafes and restaurants. You need to spend a full day here at least.
From Vaison la Romaine we take Rt.D938 direction to Malaucène. After 3 km we turn left and drive up the mountain to a well kept secret, the perched village of le Crestet. In our opinion one of the most beautiful and authentic perched villages in the Provence. The name comes from the crest on which the villages was established, the most Northern ridge of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Leave your car on the parking space of the chateau, the village is accessible only by foot. Walk the steep Calades (alleyways) and enjoy the rustic charm, the archways, fountains, the wash house and old well. The church of St.Saveur is of the 11th century (wonderful panoramic views over the Ouvèze Valley). The now privately owned castle, not accessible to the public, towers over the village. Built in the 14th century by the bishop of Vaison la Romaine, it was destroyed on the orders of Louis XIV in the 17th century and restored by private owners. Unfortunately one cannot visit the le Crestet Art Center located in the former residence of sculptor François Stahly, which is currently undergoing extensive renovation. It is owned by the Ministry of Culture and exhibits sculptures and contemporary art works.
From Crestet we take Rt.D54 to the village of Entrechaux. The name derives from the Latin "Intercallis" which simply means intersections, as several pathways and rivers (Ouvèze, Toulourenc, Aigue Marce) connect here. The landscape is a perfect transition between the plains and the Mt.Ventoux. This area has been inhabited since neolithic times. The castle was first property of the Counts of Toulouse, adversaries of the Bishop of Vaison la Romaine and later of the Pope. View three restored chapels dating from the 9th to 11th centuries and a bridge from the Romanesque era, nevertheless called Pont Roman by the locals. The village produces an excellent Côte du Ventoux.
We continue on Rt.D13 and then Rt.D938 to Malaucène, the Western gateway to Mt.Ventoux. The town is nestled in concentrical rings around the old fortress, of which very little remains except for two gates, the Porte du Roux and the Porte Soubeyran (used as a gallow). View also the clock tower (1539) and a traditional Lavoir (wash house) with an unusual round design. Remarkable is l'Eglise St.Michel et St.Pierre, constructed in the 14th century by orders of Pope Clement V. It was originally part of the remparts defense hence the fortress like appearance. The church was enlarged in the 15th and 16th century, remodelled in the 18th century by the son of the painter Nicolas Mignard with the trompe d'oeil added in the 19th century. Inside is a beautiful gold gilded wooden organ and a carved pulpit. We like the easy going atmosphere of Malaucène from May to October; its plane shaded main street with many cafes and restaurants. Watch the locals at their favourite past time, the Boule game. From nearly everwhere in Malaucène you have panoramic views of Mt.Ventoux.
Recommendation
Vaison la Romaine and the villages in the wine country West of Mt.Ventoux offer a wide array of accommodation. You can stay in one of the many small hotels or B&Bs in the countryside and experience the Provence feeling. Or rent a self-catering vacation home - a great selection in this area.
The restaurant scene is great here, one of the best in the Provence; have a look at our restaurant recommendations:
