Les Gorges du Verdon
The Verdon Gorges, also called the "le Grand Canyon du Verdon", define the border between the Départements Var and Alpes de Haute Provence. The Verdon river carved a deep canyon into the limestone cliffs here for about 21 km (13 miles). It is much smaller than the Grand Canyon but it's Europe's deepest. This is a nature conservation area, the Parc Naturel Regional du Verdon. The walls of the gorge rise a spectacular 700 m (12,000 ft) from the Verdon river below with its green emerald color. The river lives up to its name (vert = green in French), the result of dissolved limestone and microscopic plants. Down at the base, the canyon is between 6 and 100m (20-300 ft) wide, at the top the distance between north and south rims range from 200 - 1,500 m (650 - 5,000 ft). Similar to the Grand Canyon, the gorge has its own micro-climate. It is much cooler at the bottom where sun seldom shines (in some places never). Whilst at higher elevations you find the typical Mediterranean garrigue, down at the bottom it is mostly Alpine flora, which is better adapted to the colder climate. Chamois are quite common and vultures, which were nearly extinct, have been reintroduced and now number about 60. They populate the gorge's cliffs near La Palud and Rougon.
The first person in modern times to explore le Grand Canyon du Verdon was the French lawyer and explorer Edouard Alfred Martel (1859-1938). He is the father of of modern speleology, the scientific study of caves and other karst formations. In 1905 it took him three days to walk what is today known as the Sentier Martel (Martel Path), a part of the Grand Randonée (long distance footpaths) GR4 long-distance path. It must have been quite a feat in those days. Even today the route, much improved and partially carved into the stone walls of the canyon, is quite challenging and will take you at least three days. One needs to be an experienced hiker and familiar with the terrain. If you want to hike the canyon consider a guided tour or hire your own guide. A shuttle bus service operates twice a day in each direction between the key access points of the Gorges hiking paths.
First a we give a short description of the drives along the top of the South and North Rims of le Grand Canyon du Verdon. These are long winding roads with many scenic viewpoints along the way but only limited parking space. There is lots of traffic during the summer season and on weekends when motorbikers use the two roads as racecourses. In any case, take your time and plan for two days to explore the area. Make sure you spend some time in the pottery village of Moustiers Sainte Marie and visit the Pre-Historic Museum in Quinson, the largest of its kind in Europe. Be careful during the winter time - snow and ice are frequent here.
South Rim Drive (Corniche Sublime)
The Corniche Sublime runs from Castellane to Moustiers Sainte Marie for 81 km (48 miles). From Castellane drive southwest on Route D952, a scenic drive between the cliffs. Pass Porte de St.Jean where the road turns north and you will see the impressive Cadiere de Brandis. At the Pont de Soleils turn left into Route D955, which leads you through the Vallée du Jabron to Combs sur Artuby. Make a stopover in this ancient fortified village built on top of a rock, full of character with its Provençal stone houses, the fortified Knights Templar chapel of St. André and the chapels of St. Jean and St. Didier.
Continue west on Route D71 which leads you to the southern rim of the gorges. There are a number of scenic viewpoints, we recommend especially the Balcons de la Mescla with extensive views over one of the gorge's sharp turns from a height of roughly 500 m (1,600 ft). Continue on Route D71 over the Pont de l'Artuby, which spans the Artuby river at a height of 180m (590ft) and is used for bungee jumping. The road continues with many turns and a couple of tunnels until you are on top of the Falaise des Cavaliers. This is the main stretch of the Corniche Sublime with breathtaking views of the gorge's northern rim. From some of the belvederes you can catch a glimpse to the gorge's bottom. You will reach the Col d'Bloire and after driving through a tunnel the road descends to the tiny village of Aiguines. Take Route D19 to the Lac de Sainte Croix below and turn right into the Route D957 which crosses the Verdun river at the lakeside. Continue for roughly 9km (6 miles) until you get back to Route D952 where you continue west to Moustiers Saint Marie.
North Rim Drive & Route des Cretes
An equally interesting route - plan for at least half a day for the 73 km (45 miles) drive from Moustiers Sainte Marie to Castellane. From Moustiers Sainte Marie drive east on Route D952 to La Palud sur Verdon. Make stops at the scenic views, especially the Belvedere Galetas and Belvedere de Mayreste.
La Palud (pop.300) is a picturesque village with the 12th century Église Notre Dame de la Palud and the 17th century Château of the Seigneurs de Demandolx with four round towers at each corner. It was purchased by the village in 1981, renovated and now houses the Maison du Gorge du Verdon, a natural history and ecology museum for the Verdon Gorges.
At the entrance of La Palud turn right into Route D23, the Route des Cretes. It will take you on a dramatic round trip leading along the northern rim of the gorge to the Belvedere de Trescaire. Back in La Palud turn right into Route D952 and continue to Castellane.
Here is a short description of the towns and villages we recommend in the Verdon Gorges area (in alphabetical order):
Aiguines
A tiny village (pop.220) at the western end of the Verdon Gorge overlooking Lake St.Croix, delightfully set among cypresses. Noteworthy are 17th century château (restored in 1913), the square clock tower, the 18th century Hôtel des Consuls (town house) and the village fountain.
Castellane
Castellane (pop. 1.540) is a medieval town hidden in a deep valley of the green Verdon hills. A 900 m (3.000 ft) limestone cliff towers over the town with the 18th century Chapelle Notre Dame du Roc on top. There is a steep path leading up to it, accompanied by stations of the cross. Castellane is the north-eastern gateway to the Gorges du Verdon and very, very busy during the high season. It has some beautiful town houses, the 12/13th century Donjon (clock tower), the 15th century Pont du Roc and the 12th century Église Notre Dame du Plan. You find many shops, café and restaurants here. Castellane and Trigance are the best places to look for guide services in case you plan to hike through the Verdon Gorges.
It's worthwhile to explore the lakes and dams northeast of Castellane. Take Route D955 north out of Castellane. After 5 km (3 miles) turn left into Route D402 at the Col de la Blanche. You are now on a narrow road climbing up the mountain. There is a scenic viewpoint just before the hamlet of Blaron with views over the Lac de Castillon, one of the largest lakes formed by the dams on the Verdon river. Let's drive back to the direction of Castellane until you reach Route D955. Turn left and after about 3 km (2 miles) you reach the Castillon dam. There is another scenic viewpoint here. Continue on Route D955, which crosses the top of the dam, and turn right onto the Route de Demandolx, which leads you up the mountain with magnificent views of the lake and dam. Drive back over the dam and turn right onto Route N207 to Saint Julien de Verdon. This gives you access to the Lac de Castillon with its pebble beaches and watersports facilities.
Moustiers Sainte Marie
A perched village (pop. 630) near the western entrance of the Verdon Gorges on steep slopes below a limestone cliff, Moustiers Sainte Marie has a reputation as producing one of the finest potteries, the faïences , shown in collections and museums all over the world. Moustiers is a major tourist destination in France, on par with Le Baux and St.Paul de Vence. Many fine restaurants, B&Bs and inns, immaculate village houses, alleys, fountains, churches .... read more about it here.
Quinson
For the remainder of the day you could pay a visit to the Musée de Préhistoire, the Pre-Historic Museum in Quinson, 35 km (22 miles) south of Moustiers Ste.Marie. The almond shaped building was designed by Norman Foster. It's the largest of its kind in Europe and retraces the 1 million or so years of human habitation in this area. You should include a tour of the Grotte de la Baume Bonne, where some of the artifacts exhibited in the museum were found.
Riez
A vibrant market town (pop.1.700) in the Parc Naturel Regional du Verdon, a good base to explore the Verdon region. In Roman times Julia Augusta Reia Apollinaris was an important administrative center. On Route D6 to Valensole you will see on the right side four columns of gray granite with Corinthian capitals and architrave of white marble, the remains of a 1st century Roman temple dedicated to Apollo. Another Roman relic is a 4th century baptistery on Route D952 to Allemagne en Provence. Outside it is square, inside octagonal with four apsidal chapels let into the thick stone walls. The town's sundial (1806) in Place St.Antoine has the inscription:"The most serene moment is marked by a shadow". The Musée Nature en Provence explores the geological history of the Provence.
Rougon
A picturesque perched village (pop.85) with ancient stone houses, the Romanesque Église Notre Dame de la Roche et St. Romain is overlooked by the remnants of a medieval château on top of the hill.
Trigance
This lovely village (pop. 150) on the Jabron river was first mentioned in 814 as Tregentia (meaning three braids). The ancient stone houses cluster around the 15th century Église St.Michel. The massive Château de Trigance sits on top of the rock dominating the village. Its four massive towers make you stop and look. It was built in the 11th century for the Counts of Provence. Badly damaged during the French Revolution, it was renovated and converted into a hotel in 1960. The château is another one of those places where folklore has it that the treasures of the Knights Templar is hidden somewhere inside its walls.
