Alpes de Haute Provence
The Département Alpes de Haute Provence stretches from the Vaucluse in the west to the Italian border in the east. To the south is the Var and to the north the département Hautes Alpes, the alpine area of the Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur Region. A birds flight from west to east takes us from the lavender fields around Forcalquier, Simiane la Rotonde and Banon in the west, to the fruit growing region of the Durance valley, the spectacular Verdon Gorges and then further on to the elegant spa town of Digne les Bains. We finally reach the Ubaye Valley and Barcelonnette at the foot of the mighty peaks of the Southern Alpes. The spectacular Mercantour National Park is shared with the Département Alpes Maritime. The Garrigue and oak tree forests of the Var to the south give way to an Alpine landscape with meadows, forests, steep mountains and deep gorges.
One of the least populated départements in France, its 160.000 inhabitants constitute only 3.4% of the population of the Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur region and live on roughly 22% of its territory. This is "l'arriere pays", the back country. Few well known historic treasures to speak of but many hidden gems to be discovered. The Alpes de Hautes Provence should be your choice if you want to get away from it all. The anti-dote to the overcrowded Côte d'Azur during the summer time. A country of great beauty, dramatic gorges, beautiful mountain lakes, remote valleys, green forests with villages scattered about. Some beautiful but many poor and inhabited by the aged - the younger generation left for the coast and big cities where the jobs are.
This is great outdoors country. Kayaking, rafting and mountaineering. But above all this is biking and hiking country. You find many hideaway type lodgings here ranging from a few luxurious to more modest ones. You visit the Alpes de Haute Provence not because of any major historic sights. What counts here are nature and outdoor activities.
Here is a short description of the towns, villages and sights we recommend in the area (in alphabetical order):
Banon
The village (pop. 895), famous for its goat cheese, is perched on the edge of the Coulon valley. Very picturesque with narrow cobblestone alleys and stone village houses. Walk up the hill through the Vieux Village with its 17th century Église St.Marc and bell tower. Few remnants of the defensive wall remain, such as the ones at the Place du Portail. Also noteworthy the old Hôtel Dieu (hospital), which was restored by a local preservation group. Near Banon is the Gouffre du Caladaire cave, with 666 m (2.188 ft) one of the deepest in France. It is located close to the abandoned village of Montsalier le Vieux but not open to the general public (difficult descend).
The Banon cheese is made of goat's milk, generously salted and pre-matured for 1 or 2 weeks. It is then washed with a local eau de vie and wrapped in chestnut leaves. A good Banon is creamy with a full fruity and slightly oaky flavor. The origin of this much beloved cheese goes back to the 13th century. Like many local products it ran out of favor in the 1950s and 60s, when the supermarket chains started to dictate what one eats. With increasing tourism, the Banon cheese reappeared first on local markets in the 70s. Finally an enterprising local family, the Riperts, launched commercial production. Today La Fromagerie de Banon has an annual output of 200 tons, a good part of it Banon cheese.
Another gourmet specialty are the Brindilles, long, thin, spicy sausages you can buy at Chez Melchio, a well known épicerie and charcuterie on Banon's main square.
Barcelonnette
Barcelonnette (pop.3.300) was named after Barcelona by Count Raymond Berenger V, who was Count of Barcelona. In 1231 he wanted to create a smaller version of the Catalan city. Little Barcelona is situated at 1100 m (3.600 ft) altitude, a pretty town with alpine character nestled in the Ubaye Valley. A great place for hiking and biking and good base to explore the Parc National du Mercantour.
Saint Pierre des Liens (13th century origin, but totally rebuilt in 1912) and the Clocher (clock tower) are the focal points in the town center. Place Manuel with its many cafés and pedestrian only Rue Manuel are bustling with visitors during the summer season.
In case you wonder about the Mexican connection in town: The three Arnaud brothers from Jausiers in the Ubaye Valley emigrated in 1805 to Louisiana (they founded Arnaudville in St.Landry Parish) and then, 16 years later, moved on to Mexico. They made considerable fortunes there in the textile business. The tale of their success in the New World spread and others followed. As many as 5,000 people from the Ubaye Valley are believed to have emigrated to Mexico and today some 50,000 Mexicans claim Provençal descent. Some of those who returned to Barcelonnette with their fortunes constructed fine mansions, like the Villa la Sapinière, which houses the Musée de la Vallée (10 Avenue de la Libération, Tel: 04 92 81 27 15). The museum explores the history of the Ubaye Valley and the town's Mexican connection.
Nearby Jausiers is the gateway to the Mercantour National Park with its spectacular road to the Col de la Bonette, one of the highest alpine roads in Europe (2.715m/8.907ft), which links the Ubaye Valley with Nice. The road is closed in winter. In Jausiers you might want to stop at the Maison de Produits de Pays de Jausiers, where local produce and handicrafts are for sale.
