Domaine Bressy Masson, Rasteau

Our next winery in Rasteau is Domaine Bressy Masson. Rasteau and Cairanne are historic villages totally dedicated to wine. Both have picturesque &Vieux Villages&, the old hilltop villages going back to Knights Templar times and share the St.Andeol hills, one of the best terroirs in the region. Business and local politics center around wine and nothing but wine. For more on this interesting area click here.

A fairly large estate of 30 ha (74 acres), Domaine Bressy-Masson is highly regarded for its exceptionally rich and concentrated wines from old-vine Grenache and Syrah. They export mostly to European countries, but also the US, Canada and Japan.

The winery was founded by Marius Bressy. His son Emile improved wine plantings and introduced new wine making methods. He died in the 1970's, but his wife Thérèse, la grand-mère, still works in the caveau. Today the winery is managed by their daughter Marie-France Masson and husband Thierry. Their son is named Paul Emile; it is also the name of their premium wine. Nice touch.

While they have a very pleasing basic Rasteau, I have tasting notes for their premier wine, the 2001 and 2003 Cuvée Paul Emile. They are the classic Rasteau mix: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre from 30 - 40 year old vines. After some persuasion I am also trying my luck on a natural sweet wine, the Rasteau Rancio - I am not a sweet wine aficionado.

2001 Cuvée Paul Emile

2003 Cuvée Paul Emile

Rasteau Rancio

2001 Cuvée Paul Emile

This wine is probably one of the best ever produced in Rasteau in recent memory. It has an intense ruby color, a nose of sweet blackberries and cherries with a slight touch of the garrigue in the back ground. I know, I like to use the term Garrigue; it is the Provençal shrub, a mixture of broom, juniper, wild thyme, rosemary and lavender. Made of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre it is full bodied and very concentrated. The Mourvèdre gives it an extra intense taste and it has quite a bit of tannin for a Rasteau. It is great to drink between 3 - 7 years, but will last longer. At Euro 10,50 retail from the caveau a great buy, but supplies are low, the wine is not even on their price list. Great buy if you can get it. Would be one of my candidates for a Côtes du Rhône vs. California tasting contest.

2003 Cuvée Paul Emile

A medium-bodied and elegant Rasteau, but not as concentrated as the 2001. Dark ruby color, nose of sweet dark fruits with a touch of cacao and thyme, full mouth, less tannic than the 2001. Given Bressy-Mason's stellar reputation I will keep a little supply in our wine cellar in Avignon. I think this Rasteau will continue to develop nicely over the years.

Rasteau Rancio

Bressy-Masson is one of the Rasteau wineries holding up the tradition of making the Vin Dux Naturel (VDN), a natural sweet wine, recognized as an AOC in 1943. In Rasteau it is made out of 100% Grenache, wheras Beaumes de Venise produces its sweet wine from Muscat grapes. Less than 5% of Rasteau's acreage is dedicated to the VDN Rasteau. Bressy Mason produces the traditional VDN and a variation of it, the ""Rasteau Rancio". Unlike the VDN, the Rancio is aged in oak barrels. During the ageing process it is oxidised in a controlled manner by not fully topping up what has evaporated. The result is a cross between a Port and a Sherry with 16% proof. It has a sweet palate but a pleasant dry finish. I was impressed, the Rancio had a lot more character than the VDN. Contrary to my expectations, I liked it. It will hold for around 10 years. Once open you can keep it in the fridge for weeks, I was told. Sells for around Euro 11 retail at the caveau.

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posted on June 1, 2006by Eve Collins