Restaurants: Aix en Provence & Environs
Aix en Provence is the city in France where many French would like to live. It has a vibrant university body and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in France. We like Aix best during the shoulder seasons. March to June and September to November are really enjoyable with a manageable flow of tourists and many students. Aix has one of the best restaurant scenes in the Provence - a great choice of French and ethnic food.
Top choice - if you really want to splash:
Le Clos de la Violette, the top choice by all standards. Hymns have been written about this restaurant located just outside the historic center, on Avenue de la Violette (easy walk from Pasteur or Signoret parking). Elegant setting inside and on a shaded terrace. Master chef Jean-Marc Banzo offers creative dishes, wonderful in their simplicity and use of local produce, but with an unsurpassed refinement. A must if you want to experience Provençal cuisine at its highest level. To be on the safe side: make reservations weeks in advance - before you start your trip. Prices: €50-130. 10 Avenue de la Violette, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 23 30 71.
Villa Gallici is no doubt the best hotel in Aix if not the Provence. Their restaurant is equally top notch, refined, innovative and with a clear line. We were pleasantly surprised reading the selective menu - an excellent choice of fish and meat dishes. They turned out to be outstanding and we left the table in peace with ourselves and the world. Prices: €50-90. Avenue de la Violette, Impasse des Grands Pins, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 23 29 23.
Our recommendations:
The following restaurants are among the best the Provence has to offer. Notably absent in our list is the Château de la Pioline due to its location outside of the Aix city centre in a busy commercial district behind a Decathlon and a car dealership, definitely a location you do not need to visit during your vacation.
L'Amphitryon on Rue Paul Doumer close to the Cours Mirabeau, a traditional setting with a wonderful interior courtyard for outdoor dining. The food is delightful, follows the season and the occasional touch of fusion cuisine give the carefully prepared classic French dishes a refreshing touch. The place to go for a great dining experience. Prices: €20-40. 2-4 Rue Paul Doumer, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 54 10.
La Madeleine an elegant restaurant on Place des Precheurs. Well known in Aix for their fish dishes (they also offer meat and vegetarian dishes). They specialize in shell fish and do an outstanding Bouillabaisse (when you make your reservation request it). Prices Euro 30-60. 4 Place des Precheurs, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 28 02.
Chez Maxime, nicely prepared Provençal dishes, they excel especially in the meat category. Popular with Axoises and tourists. Outside dining on tiny Place Ramus is shared with three other restaurants - great atmosphere on summer evenings. Prices: € 20-40. 12 Place Ramus, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 28 51.
La Chimère Café on Rue Brueys near Place des Tanneurs is is one of the favorites of the Axoises. The restaurant is on three levels and its price/quality relationship is simply outstanding. Carefully prepared French and Provençal cuisine at its best. One of our favorites in Aix. Prices: € 15-30. 15 rue Brueys, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 30 00.
Le Passage in a smartly renovated 19th century workshop, ultra modern style. A new concept for Aix, along the lines of La Compagnie des Comptoirs in Avignon, yet different. There is a 140 seat plus restaurant, a patisserie, a cigar and wine tasting bar and a cooking school. If you enter from Rue Mazarin, don't be fooled by the sign "Patisserie". Are we introducing modern concepts from those Anglos, which can't be trusted because of their mediocre food (as per Jacques Chirac in one of his less lucid moments in 2005)? Yes, this place could be in London, San Francisco or Sydney. But the food is authentic French, creative and innovative, just wonderful. Efficient and friendly service. Around the corner of Cine Mazarin Renoir - a cousin of New York's Angelica. Prices: € 30-60. 10 Rue Villars/6 Rue Mazarin, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 37 09 00.
La Rotonde a great place, hip and attracting a young crowd, of course only "les jeunes avec l'argent". A nice terrace, a great bar and overall very comfortable environment. They serve Provençal dishes with a touch of fusion cuisine. Definitely a place to eat very well, to see and be seen. Prices: € 25-45. Place Jeanne d'Arc, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 91 61 70.
Le Verdun a friendly restaurant with an idyllic terrace under plane trees. You can get good Provençal dishes for a decent price. Low key, friendly service; they concentrate on the quality of the food here. Wish there were more like these around. You better make a reservation here, not because of the tourists but the many Axoises, who love this place. Prices: €25. 20 Place de Verdun, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 03 24.
Antoine Coté Cour, popular trattoria few stops from la Rotonde. Superb pasta and lots of fish. Efficient service with a smile. Good price/value, may be because it is off Cours Mirabeau. Prices: € 15-30. 19 Cours Mirabeau, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 93 12 51.
Chez Féraud, located in a charming Provençal house on Rue Loubon two blocks Northeast of Place Richelme. Offers traditional regional cuisine, authentic and without being tempted by fusion cuisine. Their grilled fish and meat dishes are great. They prove that Provençal cuisine can be a rewarding dining experience. Because of the overall package - food, service, price - one of our favorites in Aix. Prices: €30-55. 8 Rue du Puits Juif, 13100 Aix-en-Provence , Tel: 04 42 63 07 27.
Le Relais Ste.Victoire, in Beaurecueil 6km East of Aix, take the Route Cezanne to le Tholonet, from there 2km to Beaurecueil. Very nice property, peaceful location at the foot of Mt.St.Victoire. Maitre cuisinier Rene Berges offers an innovative and refined Provençale cuisine. Menu is according to the season as he uses fresh produce from the region. He is known for his game dishes during the autumn and winter season. Prices: €30-60. 13100 Aix en Provence - Beaurecueil. Tel: 04 42 66 94 98.
L'Oustau de St.Marc, on Rt.D10 in St.Marc de Jaumegarde. Nice shaded terrace, traditional cuisine; a great place to dine outside of Aix in a peaceful rural setting. Prices: €15-30. Les Verans, Rte. de Vauvenargues, St.Marc Jaumegard, Tel: 04 42 24 90 47.
Chez Thomé in le Tholonet 6km East of Aix; historic hunting lodge once visited by King Edward VII in 1906. Outside dining under plane trees, Provençal cuisine, great place to relax on a hot summer night. Prices: €25-45. Le Tholonet, Tel: 04 42 66 90 43.
L'Acteur, a well known fish restaurant on Rue des Tanneurs. Frightful decoration but the food is good and the service friendly. Prices: €25-40. 15, Rue des Tanneurs, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 19 37.
La Sicilia Nostra, a quick gastronomic trip to Sicily after all the Provençal food. Appreciated by the Axoises for its excellent price/quality and genuine Sicilian food. Prices: €20-35. 14-16 Rue Constantin, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 96 41 03.
Le Zinc d' Hugo, a small restaurant just North of Place des Tanneurs, pretty rustic but they can do some wonderful dishes. Prices: €30-60. 22 Rue Lieutaud, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 69 69.
Chez Charlotte, favorite of ma belle soeur (sister in law); it is her idea of splashing on a student's allowance. Marie-Louise rightly pointed out that the food is good, the portions generous. The somewhat quirky surroundings make you remember the times when you were in your early 20s. But it is very popular with the Axoises, no matter what age. We had a great time there. Prices: €13-20. Owner does speak some English if he must. 32 Rue des Bernadines, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 77 56. Between Rue Fontaine and Lisse des Cordelieres, a bit difficult to find.
The Bistro & Café Universe:
There are many good bistros and cafés in Aix - impossible to list them all. We no longer include Café Deux Garcons, the grand old daddy of cafés/bistros in Aix on Cours Mirabeau. Cezanne hang out here. But that's no excuse for dismal service.
Café Bastide du Cours , a trendy brasserie, our top choice on Cours Mirabeau. Well prepared bistro type meals at reasonable prices. You will love the food, the friendly service and can watch the lively scene on Cours Mirabeau. Prices: €25-35. 43-47 Cours Mirabeau, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 10 06.
Brasserie Léopold, of the Hotel Saint-Christophe close to the Rotonde. A trendy brasserie with 30s decor, many young people, excellent, innovative bistro food and reasonable prices. Prices: €25-35. 2 Avenue Victor Hugo, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 01 24.
l'Unic Bar, another one of our favorites. A favorite place for breakfast after a long night out. A great location to watch people as the café overlooks the daily fruit market on Place Richelme, which has operated here for over 450 years. Prices: €15-25. 40 Rue Vauvernargues (Place Richelme), 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 96 38 28.
Happy Days Café, just in case the l'Unic is full. Equally good we were told. Prices: €10-15. Place Richelme, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 21 02 35.
Ethnic Treasures:
Living in the Provence you yearn for some ethnic food sooner or later. Arab, African, Chinese, Vietnamese, Indian, anything. Understandably most foreign visitors want to experience French food. But for us living here a change once in a while is welcome. So here are our favorite ethnic restaurants in Aix; over time this category will expand. Absent from our list is the much heralded Cay Tam, a Vietnamese restaurant. We were not impressed, the food is good but they seem to have gotten the airs after some good reviews, especially in terms of prices.
Le Riad, elegant Moroccan restaurant in a historic townhouse with a charming inner courtyard on Rue Lieutaud North of Place des Tanneurs. Moroccan food at its best, our favorite in town. Delicious desserts. Very friendly easy going service. Prices: €30-50. 21 Rue Lieutaud, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 15 70.
Le Jasmin de Persépolis, a gem from ancient Persia. This small restaurant with a charming shaded terrace is popular with the Axoises. Persian cuisine is one of the most refined in the world and Le Jasmin proves it. Prices: €20-30. 6 Rue de la Fonderie, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 05 89 (Eastern edge of old Aix, just before you reach Boulevard Carnot).
Antioche, the Turkish-Lebanese owners offer a very limited menu, but dishes are well prepared and the service is easy going and friendly. The lunch menu at €13 is unbeatable. They have two locations now, the tiny old restaurant with outside tables near Rue de la Verrerie and the newer Divine de Antioche on 8, Forum des Cardeurs (a location we would normally stay away from - too touristy). Prices: €13-25. 18 Rue Felibre Gaut, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 11 88.
Table du Mandarin friendly Chinese restaurant on Rue des Tanneurs in Aix. Comfortable place, easy going and good food. Prices: €15-25. 9 Rue des Tanneurs, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 91 41.
Anh Dao, open air dining on tiny Place Ramus, a well regarded Vietnamese. Prices: €15-25. 6 Place Ramus, Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 73 60.
Le Saf, ever tried African food before? Here is a good introduction with this well regarded Senegalese restaurant on Rue de la Couronne, South of Place des Tanneurs. You will like the exotic tastes and flavors. Prices: €15-20. 16 Rue de la Couronne, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 94 25.
Au Petit Tahiti, this tiny restaurant is a great place for lunch. They offer simple but savory Tahitienne cuisine, which has French and Asian influence. We recommend the vegetarian dishes. Madame Helene from Papeete is not shy to teach you some Tahitienne dance steps, just stick around. Prices: €15-30. 9 Rue Isolette, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 38 32 (two blocks South of Place des Tanneurs).
Homesick?
The Olde Bulldogge, informal place loved by homesick Anglos and students alike. Fish and chips, bangers and mash, burgers and all day breakfast à la anglaise! You can even get used again to the English decor. Prices: €5-10. 32 Rue Emerie David, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 91 39 93 (open 7 days from 7AM-11PM).
The Bulldogge & Barrister, the younger brother of the very successful Olde Bulldogge, equally good, same clientele. 29 Place Miolis, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel : 04 42 93 21 97
Moroccan Tea Houses
Tea houses have become very fashionable here. A good place to relax.
L'Orienthe, a small, beautifully decorated little tea house. No chairs, just cushions. 5 Rue Félibre Gaut, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 06 62 16 48 25 (near Rue de la Verrerie)
La Theiere d'Orient, nicely decorated, a good place to rest and have a tea after walking the streets of Aix. 30 Rue Lieutaud, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 06 17 30 18 71.
