Menton's English Gardens
Menton, the city of lemons, oranges and English gardens, has developed a character quite separate from local cultural traditions. In a landscape of evergreen, hardy shrub (the "Garrigue") with olive and lemon tree groves in between, the eclectic late 19th/early20th century gardens established by its English owners look somehow out of place. But they are lovely, peaceful, romantic, exotic - any one of those attributes will do. They take advantage of the exceptional mild Mediterranean climate and Menton's sheltered position from the winter scourge of the Provence, the Mistral winds.
When Scotsman Tobias Smollett arrived here in 1763, he was impressed by the beauty of this coastal stretch. In his book "Travels through France and Italy" he writes:" I can myself remember Cannes in 1853, a small fishing village with a quiet beach, and Mentone, a walled town with medieval gates and a castle, a few humble villas and the old Posta to give supper to any passing traveler. It was one of the loveliest bits of Italy, and the road from Nizza to Genoa was one long procession for four days of glorious scenery, historic remnants, Italian colour, and picturesque ports."
A century later the Physician James Henry Bennet (1816-1891) recommended the mild winter climate in Menton to his wealthy patients - the start of Menton's glorious period. By 1900 this area between the Maritime Alps and the Mediterranean sea had a collection of luxurious villas, palatial Grand hotels, three seafront promenades and the English gardens. It was the place to see and be seen - during the colder season.
After a steady and merciless decline since the late 1920s, Menton is on its way back. True, many of the grand hotels have been converted to residences. But a lot of once decrepit buildings and villas have been or are being restored. Menton is back!
Even if your are pressed for time, I recommend to visit two magnificent gardens:
- Jardin Botanique Exotique du Val Rahmeh in Menton Garavan, which is owned by the Museum of Natural History in Paris.
- Jardin Serre de la Madone on the road to Gorbio, which was created from 1919-39 by the English garden designer Lawrence Johnston of Hidcote Manor (Gloucestershire) fame.
Should you happen to be in the area in late February/early March, don't miss the annual Fête des Citrons (citrus fruit festival), which draws around two hundred thousand visitors.
