Celebrated by poets and writers from Petrarch to Peter Mayle, Provence's rugged mountains, lavender fields and wild garrigue are world-famous. Historic gems like Avignon, Arles, Aix en Provence, Orange and Vaison la Romaine contain Roman amphitheatres, papal palaces, royal residences, while vibrant market towns and picturesque villages keep their age old traditions. From the rolling hills of the Drôme Provençale, the vineyards of the Southern Côtes du Rhône to the marshy plains of the Camargue, from rugged Mt.Ste.Victoire of Cezanne fame to the mighty Rhône river, Provence encompasses a rich variety of landscapes.
But the Provence is also one of the most rapidly developing areas of France. Many decided to move here permanently to enjoy the sunny climate, the relaxed way of life and the many cultural and gastronomic highlights. The number of people vacationing here has grown year by year. Property speculation and "lifestyle" real estate developments have taken over large swaths of the Mediterranean coast and choice areas further inland.
Plan your trip carefully, choose the right area and accommodation and you are pretty much on your way to experience the "ideal" Provence, a Provence which offers food for the soul and the body. This online travel guide will assist you to achieve this goal.
We explore the Provençal Heartland, the region between Aix en Provence, Arles and Vaison la Romaine. This area contains the fashionable Luberon region and l'Isle sur la Sorgue, the Alpilles (Little Alpes) with St.Rémy de Provence, magificent Avignon, ancient Carpentras and Orange, Châteauneuf du Pape and the villages around Mont Ventoux, the Southern Côtes du Rhône wine region. Then we venture a bit further north to the Enclave des Papes, the Drôme Provençale and the rugged Baronnies region. Here the pace of life is slower and the ancient villages and remote valleys enchant you. The Provençal Heartland offers you lots of nature, especially in the various nature preservation areas. The "Parc Naturel Régional" is not a National Park as we know it in the US, but an area where development is strictly limited. So you do find villages, limited farming and, of course, lots of nature; great for walking, hiking and mountain climbing. Small country roads invite you to bike. Examples are the Parcs Naturels Régionaux of the Luberon, Les Alpilles, Mont Ventoux and hopefully soon Les Baronnies.
So what about the Côte d'Azur? During the high season (mid June to mid September): Very, very busy and expensive (a function of very expensive real estate). The Côte d'Azur between Nice and Menton is a "must see at least once" type destination: Vieux Nice, Villefranche, St.Jean Cap Ferrat, Beaulieu, Monaco, the hill top village of Eze and Menton on the Italian border.
Have a glance at glitzy Cannes and the attractive village of St.Paul de Vence (Fondation Maeght Museum). Fashionable Antibes (Picasso Museum is currently closed due to renovation) and the red coastal cliffs of the Massif de l'Estérel. Further west on the coast we recommend the delightful area around St.Tropez, where many of the rich and famous have their summer homes. Plage de Gigaro southwest of St. Tropez has been voted one of the best beaches in France. But one word of caution: The Mediterranean Coast from Menton to Marseilles does not give you much of a "hideaway" feeling. During the high season you will be faced with on and off gridlock on the roads. A different approach, a different life. Do you prefer Miami Beach or the Berkshires in Massachusetts? There is a place for both - it depends what you are looking for and what time of the year you are traveling.
On our to do list are the following areas: the Côte d'Azur regions mentioned above, the Gard Provençal (Nimes, Uzès, Pont du Gard), the Haut Var (from St.Maximin le Ste.Baume to the Gorges du Verdon) and the lovely area around Fayence.
read more about the regions of the Provence here
"When is the best time to visit the Provence?" The answer of most websites trying to sell you something is: "Anytime is ideal!" Frankly, that is not quite true. December, January, February and quite often March are mostly miserable. You have a good chance that the Mistral is blowing at more than 50 miles/hour. Everybody hunkers down in their homes. Reportedly the suicide rate goes up; in any case the few people you are meeting are in a somber mood. Never mind that the sky is as blue as it gets when the Mistral blows, it is definitely not the time to bike, hike or do sightseeing. Many restaurants and hotels are closed during this time.
That's the bad news. The good news is that the rest of the year the Provence has plenty of sunshine, lots of it. Each season has its own perks. Overall the Provence is probably the most Northern region in Europe where sunshine is practically guaranteed. The lack of rain is a problem for agriculture. But unlike some regions in Spain, Greece or Italy we have not heard about problems with the water supply. Infrastructure in France is first class and the water pressure is excellent in almost all places.
read more about the weather in the Provence here
The Provence offers you a wide choice of accommodation. The area we cover is a heaven for the individual tourist. In the historic towns and villages as well as in the countryside you find a very appealing choice of small hotels, B&Bs and vacation rentals. Strict building codes are a plus in France; even on the Côte d'Azur development is less intrusive than the massive concrete wall of high risers lining most of the Mediterranean coast in Spain.
If it is only the two of you, a hotel or B&B is probably your best choice. Unless you are one of those independent minded individuals who likes to make his/her own hours, have breakfast when and how you like or do your own cooking. If you stay less than a week in one location you definitely need to go to a hotel or B&B; the minimum stay for nearly all rental properties is 1 week, during summer vacations in many cases 2 weeks. For larger parties staying at least 1-2 weeks, renting a self-catering vacation home is the best choice, especially with children.
Please be aware that if you want to stay in a choice hotel, B&B or rental property during European school vacations you need to book well in advance. Start making reservations latest by November/December for the summer of the following year!
read more about our lodging recommendations here
Many of the dishes of the Provence will already be familiar to you, so much has been written about them and so many restaurants have them on their menus. But you will be surprised how many local culinary treasures are yet to be discovered visiting the Provence. One thing is for sure: In gastronomic terms there is not one Provence but many Provences. Because each region has its typical dishes. The common denominator is the abundant use of vegetables, olive oil and typical spices of the Provence, such as rosemary, thyme, basil, oregano, bay leaf (laurel), marjoram and sariette (summer savory). And let's not forget the garlic. All this makes for very healthy cooking, meeting today's demands for tasty, low cholesterol food. Many famous chefs have realized the potential of Provençal food and have turned these simple local recipes into delicious, mouth watering fares. These masters gave a new style and a fresh look to these ancient recipes. They strike a chord here with the French, a very urban society, but with a sentimental attachment to the countryside you rarely find in other cultures.
Let's explore the cuisines of these different Provences, the Bouches du Rhône with Marseilles, Aix en Provence, Arles and the Camargue, the Vaucluse, the Napa Valley of France, a land of magnificent views with vineyards, olive groves, lavender and ancient towns and villages, like Avignon, Orange, Carpentras and ......
read more about the regional cuisines of the Provence here
Buying a property in the Provence has become a reality for many people, either as a vacation property or as a primary residence for retirement. It is one of the most sought after areas in Europe due to its climate, culture, excellent infrastructure (legal framework, health services, utilities) and above all the strict building code and zoning laws, which are rigorously enforced. All of this has its price as compared to other popular vacation or retirement regions in Europe. In other words, the Provence is one of the more expensive places in Europe and real estate prices in the choice areas here have increased year by year. It depends what your point of reference is, of course. Compared to choice areas in the UK, US or Australia, many regions in the Provence are still relatively affordable.
Rule #1: Vacation in the area, where you want to buy at different seasons.
Rule #2: Do your homework thoroughly before looking for a property. Find out how to search for your "coup d'coeur". Inquire about the many rules and regulations regarding the purchase and the transaction costs and taxes involved. If you need to renovate the place, read Peter Mayle's book "A Year in Provence" before you buy - a pretty acurate description of what you can expect.
Rule #3: Be patient! Provence homeowners, especially in the countryside, suffer from acute seller's remorse once negotiations get under way. Be friendly, establish personal contact and most of all be very, very patient.
read more about buying a property
